While sailing? I thought it was a self bailer All mine does is let water into the boat when I bump it loose while flailing around in the cockpit. When I get the boat moving faster it does not drain out any water, though it seems to slow down or stop letting it in. When moving slowly the water comes in quite fast.
Is this functioning properly? Or am I doing something wrong? I didn't think I'd need a bailing sponge for a Laser. Thanks, that's what I needed to know. Noticed the exact same thing in my Laser today BJ.
You and I are both big guys. So I think its the pressure of US on the hull in the water. I'm just going to close the bailer and leave it that way. The beauty of the self bailer in almost all dinghies is, you can keep the bailer closed until you need it and when you need it it works. If there is enough wind to make big enough waves to splash water in the boat, the boat can also move rapidly enough to cause sufficient suction on the back end of the bailer..
The thing is simple. It is totally intuitive. Either it does what it shopuld or it needs something to make it work Unless the cause of the water in the cockpit is a passing motorboat, the bailer will suck the water out. I seem to bump mine with my rather spastic movements in the cockpit, which knocks it open.
I don't notice this until my legs start feeling the chill of the water. But seriously, it probably needs a little TLC, it should work around 5kts, 7 is pretty fast relatively speaking for a bailer to start working at. It seems like it's not doing as much at lower speed bc the hole is much smaller than say a Laser2 or bailer size, so you don't notice the flow as much. Sounds like your bailer might be just fine and you were simply not moving fast enough.
If you leave it open in light to moderate winds it will be a 2-way-street.. I figure if I have to throw my lb ass over the side to keep the boat flat I should, in theory, be going fast enough to suck the water out, no?
Dude, you are way too big to be sailing a Laser. Get your fat ass in a Finn and get competitive. Not only that, the drains in a Finn are idiot proof. They had better be, considering the volume of water that they may have to deal with in comparison to a Laser. Haven't you figured out yet from reading this forum that a Finn is what Laser sailors graduate to when they A: Get to beer-drinking age and pack a few pounds on, or B: Get to the point where they tire of childish pursuits and decide to be manly about their sailing?
In theory his fat ass should get out of a laser, but having no idea where he is, the fleet, or if hes even racing or just putzing around, well there's a lot of theories.
If your still having problems with the bailer and your out in winds heavy enough to have you and me hiking out. The bailer should have no problems draining the boat. I'd suspect that your have popped the bailer door off of it's pivots and it isn't "sucking" properly. One thing I have found that has helped my Laser bailer perform much better and Peter G.
Except I take mine a step further. Put your bead of silicone around the edge of the bailer and set it in place best fit. Let the silicone dry good, overnight is nice but sometimes not practical.
Then coat your center screw threads with silicone and squirt a good dab down the screw hole. Then when ya screw the bailer down it it doesn't need to be any tighter then snug it won't cause or allow any deformation of the plastic housing cause the silicone is still holding it in the best possible place.
Here's another helpful hint that I am sure the other Laserites can expound upon. Take the rubber cork off of the stem and you can either jam it under one of the grab rails or I like to stick it in my life jacket pocket.
Some Laser sailors like to duct tape the stem to the cockpit floor. It will help your boat drain better and your less likely to accidently kick it closed too. Now for lighter air your pretty much fucked if your not going fast enough to create suction. Water will come in thru the bailer if it is open and it will leak through if it is not open. Just something you end up having to live with on the Laser like the hanging the main sheet on the transom corner. The when ya screw the bailer down it it doesn't need to be any tighter then snug it won't allow any deformation of the plastic housing cause the silicone is still holding it in the best possible place.
Now for lighter air your pretty much fucked if your not going fast enough to create suction water will come in thru the bailer if it is open and it will leak if it is not open.
I'm not that serious that I want to spend that much to go get my ass kicked by a bunch of strangers in Newport if there are Finns there.
We have a Laser group sailing Saturdays in the fall; mostly buddies of mine. The theory is that I keep getting smaller I sailed the Masters worlds at this summer. Here is an incredible Capizzano shot taken from about a mile in front of me in front of everybody else that disproves the too big for the boat claim Nice shot Fred, Outstanding job!
Final Word:. A cockpit filled with water is no fun. A low-tech method to solve this is the original bailer - your foot. Twist the inside of your foot flat along the bottom of the cockpit and KICK towards the back.
For everything else - a well functioning autobailer will be a good companion to keeping the cockpit dry without distraction so you can focus on sailing. If you want to copy the content in any of our articles, please make a request to Marketing WestCoastSailing. What exactly does an autobailer do? So after removing the one screw you may need to tug on the bailer itself a bit.
Remember to also remove the cockpit bung plug inside your boat - do this by twisting it side to side and pulling. Clean the area: Scrape off any left over silicone on the edges and in the screw hole. Cut away any sticky silicone or tape. Check the fit: The new autobailer should be flat and fit well.
That said, there may be two issues: Sometimes a bailer can have a slight curve. So put it on the hull and make sure it sits flush. A slight indentation into the hull is better than having it protrude Gaps at the front edge are not ideal, the bailer should sit flush.
You can also dip half of the screw threads in silicone. Push the bailer into the hull and do a final fit check. Then tighten the screw - being mindful not to overtighten. Install the cockpit bung from inside the cockpit.
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