Haymaker deck pokemon tcg game boy


















Here are a few more reasons why it's not a good choice for interested players:. Of course, the Game Boy Color game isn't all bad. In many ways, it's a great advertising tool for Old School Plus, it teaches the basics of the early years of the card game. However, these pros are far outweighed by the cons. Base Set Blastoise base wasn't perfect. Squirtle base was pretty weak, with mediocre attacks and just 40HP in metagames where Electabuzz base could Thunder Punch it into oblivion for two energy.

The deck's goal was to evolve Blastoise base as quickly as possible, then use trainers like Bill base and Professor Oak base to draw cards at the speed of sound and cover your side of the table with water energy. That was 10 damage short of a one-hit KO on the Haymaker mons, and way off the 80 damage you'd need to KO a Wigglytuff base If you wanted to deal 60 damage a turn and try to PlusPower base for the win, Wigglytuff base was just better.

Rain Dance didn't even have room to run PlusPower base But again, you've gotta understand the context. Energy: 14 14 Water Energy base Since Blastoise base Hydro Pump attack was a little underpowered, you had to pair it with something else that could make better use of all that water energy.

The best option was Gyarados base , offering a solid 50 damage for just three energy with Dragon Rage, and an added chance to paralyze with Bubblebeam on a coin flip, if you had one more energy to spare. Most importantly, Blastoise base and Gyarados base were both on the high end of durability for their time. With HP each, they'd almost never get KO'd in a single hit by anything in Haymaker or Do The Wave, so if you had a good start and managed your bench carefully you would repeatedly kick out big attacks and win your trades.

In theory, Rain Dance protected you from Energy Removal base and Super Energy Removal base , while the sheer pressure of a Turn 2 Gyarados base ready to Dragon Rage for 50 again and again couldn't be matched. And in your good games that was all true! But getting everything up and running meant multiple evolutions, including one that required a combo of Pokemon Breeder base and Blastoise base And every time you had to dig for that combo with Professor Oak base , you were usually discarding water energy in the process.

And Magikarp base only had 30HP, with an electric weakness. And you had to play healing trainers over Energy Removal base And none of your stuff had free retreat.

And so on. The deck wasn't awful, but it had a higher list of demands you had to meet for it to work, and it just didn't always get there. It would be a while before Blastoise base would find its perfect partner in crime, with the release of Articuno base in Fossil. With attacks that made it comparable in power to Gyarados base , Articuno base biggest advantage was that it was a Basic Pokemon, leaving you more room for Trainer cards and saving you from having to leave vulnerable Magikarp base on your bench where they were easy KOs for Gust of Wind base When it goes off it wins, and has crazy fun doing it.

The game was legitimately good by any measure, the culture surrounding it was electric, and we all knew that win or lose, we were standing in the middle of something special. But yeah, even once the summer of '99 was over, formats like this one kept on going.

Meanwhile, lots of players who left the game for years eventually opened up their deck boxes and binders again, found these cards, and looked to get back into the game with fellow fans in the exact same situation.

It is the epitome of "Beat-Down" decks. Typically a Haymaker lacks the "depth" necessary to withstand late-game attackers, and compensates by never allowing the match to get that far. Scyther is included as Fighting resistance to ward off your opponent's Hitmonchan and Hitmonlees and for its free retreat cost. Clash is a little expensive for this deck—allocate most of your resources onto the "karate kids".

Scyther's Swords Dance is a quaint little move that is useful about once only each game. Use it immediately prior to attaching the 3rd energy card for a 60 damage Slash. There is little point using Swords Dance beyond attaching the 3rd energy since two rounds of 30 damage is equal and more difficult to defend against than one round of Grimer is only included as a Muk foundation. Both of Grimer's attacks just scream out: "Attack me please! Muk's Toxic Gas is what it's all about.

Even Sludge should be avoided as it is too slow for this deck's appetite. Strategy A good deck needs a strategy, a purpose. This is the main mistake for a beginner. Many just pick two colors and some of their favorite Pokemon and build the deck around those.

A strategy normally envolves a certain card or combo that has an interesting and useful attack or Pokepower. Make sure your deck as a strategy other than just 'eventually' dealing damage to the opponent. They look weak compared to the heavy evolutions with HP and 60 damage, but they're fast and don't have to deal with evolution. The 1 most important aspect is to have multiple copies of a card, in general. If it's an important card, have 3 or 4. If it's good but not that important, use 2.

Almost never use just one, except for decks that specialize. Evolution Don't go with one of each stage, you'll never get them when you need them. Most often, you should pyramid the evolutions. Trainers Extremely important. Don't overlook these. Other trainers should, of course, support the strategy Energy This most often depends on the deck. Just try and make sure your energy is enough, but doesn't overly clog your deck.

Therefore, I am merely going to doctor it to show you how to focus a deck, not create a whole new tournament ready deck, so just follow my lead to see how to properly focus your card choices.

Pokemon Changes We are going to need to slim this deck down to two energy choices, there are just way too many pokemon chains. Like I said, this is just an example, so I am just going to pick a type to deal away with. Also, with no Graveler or any kind of focus on the Geodude line in this deck, cut out the awkwardly placed Geodudes. Pokemon 2x Squirtle 1x Wartortle 1x Blastoise 2x Seel 1x Dewgong 1x Staryu 1x Starmie 1x Lapras 1x Machop 1x Machoke 1x Hitmonchan 2x Rattata 1x Raticate 1x Meowth Now its time to beef up some of the remaining lines and cut out the stragglers that are left and don't fit with the final product.

Since this isn't a Rain Dance focused deck, just cut out the Blastoise. Lapras is a good opener and can help stall or set you up for your later evolutions, so keep that. Substituting and balancing decks is a matter of analysis and personal taste. Substitute the lines as you see fit. For example, I could possibly see Gyrados replacing Dewgong, and etc. At this point, I am not seeing the colorless being all that useful, so axe them. Looking back, 23 Pokemon may be too many for this deck, so last ditch cuts and additions are made at your leisure.

Here's what my finish product ended up looking like: Pokemon 19 4x Seel 3x Dewgong 3x Lapras 3x Machop 2x Machoke 4x Hitmonchan I ended up cutting out Starmie for additional early game power with Hitmonchan.

Now for trainers. That card is a godsend, and there is no drawback to it. Also cut out the lonely Switch and Full Heal, as they are not needed. With the presence of Machop, Lapras, and Hitmonchan for early game, some Pluspowers would definitely help their low energy attacks out. Also, because of our ability to do 50 damage with Machoke and Dewgong, some Gust of Winds should be added in order to kill off important basic pokemon that may later evolve into powerful creatures.

We could also throw in 2 Computer Searches in order to find that evolution creature or a professor Oak in times of need. Trainers 2x Professor Oak 4x Bill 3x Pluspower 3x Gust of Wind 2x Computer Search It is always good to keep your enemy energy starved, and Energy Removals will help with this deck because it will give us time to set up our 3 Energy 50 Damage attacks while our basics keep pounding away with one energy card.

I ended up using this: Energy 21 12x Water Energy 9x Fighting Energy More water because the fighting type in our deck can manage with only one until evolution.

I also won every match, but that's mostly because the trainers are horrible. Overall, this deck will do well in casual play, but like many, will probably fall short to more competitive archtypes, like Haymakers. It serves as a decent guide to balancing a deck however, as this deck will fair far better than the original.

These cards have been picked for their usefulness is most situations, and a few standouts for their abilities to have whole decks be based around them.

Top 5 Trainers 1. Bill 2. Professor Oak 3. Super Energy Removal 4. Gust of Wind 5. Pluspower Top 5 Pokemon 1. Scyther 2. Electabuzz 3. Wigglytuff 4. Chansey 5. Scyther: This is the ultimate "all-arounder" Pokemon card. Works great with Venasaur, awesome in Haymakers and in anti-Haymakers imagine that, stops Hitmochan in its path , and with its high HP and ability to use any color, you never know when you'll see a Scyther pop up in someone's deck.

Electabuzz: Quite simply put the most powerful base Pokemon, no evos, but can do 40 damage with two energy! And only one of those has to be electric, so he is also fairly flexible and requires little electric energy to function. Weakness to fighting and no resistance put him below Scyther without question tl;dr - Big power with a little gamblin' luck 3.

Wigglytuff: All I have to say is put this in a deck with strong basice ie 'Do the Wave' and if you have enough search cards like Bill and Oak and the like, you'll have a turn two or three Wiggly dealing out 60 damage for 3 colorless before the opponent even knew what hit them. Super stall card, colorless, deals out HUGE damage when it has to.

Another super flexible card. Blastoise has an entire deck based around his Pokemon Power, so that does the talking for him. Although updated now, these decks have proven over and over again through tournament wins to detailed analysis at Pojo.

I will list the basic structure for each "arch-type", and then list a few common hybrids that are also useful. Built for speed, the original Haymaker is a go-to competitive deck, made to win with fast and brutal basic Pokemon attacks with the aid of numerous trainers. Looks shaky at first, but this is a deck built by an expert, and it is solid. The Sponge v1. Again, it goes against the basic standing by having seemingly miscellaneous one trick cards, but in actuality it is all set up to take out the current metagame of haymakers and the likes.

Solid deck. The variations are limitless to this, try and create your own. Be sure to take advantage of Energy Transing all the energy to a non injured pokemon, and then playing the Pokemon Center so that you lose no energy for a clean sweep of your damage. Tricky tricky Rinse and repeat. Do whatever it takes to get a full bench and a Wiggly. Usually you will be able to attack on the third turn to do 70 damage. Since it is the only basic pokemon in the deck, you will always have it in your hand to play at the start of the game.

One problem that i face with this deck is if a person plays alot of mysterious fossils or clefairy dolls becuase Zapdos' attack is random and so killing those trainers just wastes time.

Another is that becuase Zapdos' attack is so high, it cannot kill a Mr. Thus Kabuto is put in. Since it is a Stage 1 pokemon, it does not get in the way of you drawing Zapdos on the first turn. Oak 4x Energy Removal 4x Gust of Wind 4x Plus Power 4x Computer Search Energy 18 4x DCE 7x Psychic 7x Fighting User's Strategy: The reason for this list is that regardless of what your opening hand is, you can fix it to the point where you can either be swinging with a Mewtwo on turn 2 and have a DCE on a Jigglypuff waiting for the evo, or a fully powered Wigglytuff on turn 2 going the distance and just wrecking house.

There's never a situation with this deck where you really need a SER and if you do, you can Comp. Search up a second ER. You also don't need 4x Wigglytuff; if one dies it's done enough damage for the second one to finish the job no matter what it is. You get really flooded with dead ends if you use the build you have between pitching needed cards to the Item Finder and losing energy without a way to get it back to the SER. You want consistency and the best way is with 4 each of the most powerful Trainer cards available and the same for your Pokemon, running 2 of anything in a deck like this spells disaster.

If the opponent doesn't swap the Pokemon, Pokemon with 60 HP or under is dead before your turn. Rince repeat all over again. And if you get your Nidokings beated up, Use Hypno and Scyther to take care of rest. You should be able to play professor oak times each game and the only problems I tend to have is in long games possibly decking myself but even that shouldn't be a problem after playing the deck a few times.

Thus, I'll submit my effort for the control scheme in a very simple format: A Button: Do something. B Button: Cancel something.

Start: Pause. Select: In-duel shortcuts And that's the end of that chapter After you easily conquer the story mode by either your own means or by using this guide as help you better These matches are what really bring the game to life and allow the bigger aspect of strategy to shine through.

To activate a link battle, go to the left wing room in any gym and talk to one of the clerks behind the counter. You've got the power in your hands, so use it! The Energy cards are the most basic and most common kind of cards. Uncommon cards are marked with a Diamond , and rare cards are marked with a Star. In addition, some rare cards are printed using holographic foil. These "holo" cards are the hardest to catch and collect. The same cards may be reprinted in the future but never with the symbol, ensuring that your first-edition cards will maintain their value!

If you're mostly interested in playing, there are always good cards appearing in all levels of commonality. This ensures that players who buy different amounts of cards can still play and have a fun and fair game.

You can use pennies or whatever else you want to if you run out of counters. First, at the start of the game, you set aside 6 of your cards as Prizes. When you've taken all 6 of your Prizes, you win the game! You'll win most of your games this way. And finally, you win if your opponent's deck is out of cards at the start of his or her turn.

You can also play Trainer cards-these will do lots of different things to help you win. The rest will be sitting on your Bench in case you need them to fight.

Trainer cards are one-shot cards that do something once and are then discarded. Put the rest of your deck face-down in front of you. Put the top 6 cards of your deck face-down in front of you. You can't look at a Prize card until you take it. Flip a coin to decide who goes first. Be sure to leave room for your discard pile. All of your cards that get discarded during the game, no matter how they get discarded, will go there.

During the game, you'll be putting more and more cards on the table. You can keep using those cards in play turn after turn. Trainer cards, though, are used once and then discarded. As you play, you and your opponent take turns. During your turn, go through the steps below. If your deck is empty at the beginning of your turn, the game is over, and your opponent wins. Example: Juliane has a card called Ninetales that says "Evolves from Vulpix," and she has a Vulpix card in play.

She may play the Ninetales card on top of the Vulpix card. Unlike most of the other things you can do during your turn, you may do this only once during your turn. After all, that's "in play," too! Play a Trainer card When you want to play a Trainer card, do what it says, then put it in the discard pile.



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